As smoked eel jolts the palate with such an expansive hit of richly savoury flavour, its companions must be chosen wisely. A gathering: the crush of sweetly waxy potato to soothe the senses, the tingle of horseradish to uplift the spirits, this mound of just-warm softness served with the crunch of hot, well-buttered toast. What these companions lack in glamour, they amply make up for in complement, contrast and understanding. A happy thought for our own dearest friendships.