EVA consists of three distinct cruxes- the third of which revolves around a small right hand crimp and an off-balance stand-up move into a good undercling. This is around 3/4 of the way up the boulder deep in the “really really really don’t want to fall” zone. As a singular move, I think it could clock in around V4-V6 depending on who you ask. But that’s not really the point…The point is that you’re doing a pretty hard move after some already pretty hard climbing and you’re pretty high off the deck. I spent the last couple sessions on EVA working the moves on a top rope. It was only the session before this one that I felt good enough with the movement that I wanted to go for the send from the ground. It’s an interesting moment- deciding when you’re ready. And with high-consequence climbing I believe it requires a level of self knowledge and introspection that other disciplines of climbing don’t ask for. Nina (aka one of the most accomplished highballers in the world) @sheneenagins asked me how I knew when I was ready for something like this. She asked me where I felt it in my body. I think I feel it in my chest and in my stomach. When I’m preparing, it feels like a high frequency tingle- almost like fear and anxiety, up high in my throat. But as I get closer to feeling ready, it settles into my chest and my stomach, and feels more like a warmth. A deep knowing. It’s hard to describe. I felt ready that day. I had dialed the moves to perfection on a rope a few days prior and was coming off of a couple days of rest. I had stacked all the cards in my favor. If I were to change anything at all, I probably would’ve waited a little bit longer for my heart rate to decrease before I hopped on. The speed of my heart translated to a tiny bit of shakiness on the wall. Nothing consequential (or even noticeable), just a touch more uncomfortable than I would have liked. But besides that, everything went perfectly. The weather was incredible, the pads were plentiful, and the support crew was all-time. I fired it first go of the day. 🖤 ————————————————/—-/——————— Thanks @christianwong18 for these stunning photos. Thank @organicclimbing for keeping me safe 🥰

Channel/Medium:
Instagram
onMay 1, 2025
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Organic Climbing

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EVA consists of three distinct cruxes- the third of which revolves around a small right hand crimp and an off-balance stand-up move into a good undercling
May 1, 2025, 10:13 PM

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EVA consists of three distinct cruxes- the third of which revolves around a small right hand crimp and an off-balance stand-up move into a good undercling

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