We love citrus, scarily so. We love it in our cocktails, on our tables, and clearly from our ceilings. Every year now, around this time, we find ourselves gravitating back to it. Last year, lemons. This year, oranges made a case. A fruit that arrives all at once and refuses to be rationed. It wants to be piled, spilled, left where it lands. A table dressed this way is less arrangement than appetite. Which citrus are you?