Last week, Montane athlete Franco Cookson completed the first ascent of But Nothing is Lost, proposed at E12 7a, making it the hardest trad route yet established in the UK. High on the remote syenite walls of Ben Loyal, this was never just another project. Over four years, Franco returned again and again to confront a pitch that demanded absolute precision from the very first move. A route built on tiny footholds, complex sequences and complete commitment. 84 crucial foot movements, mostly in the no fall zone. The process became all consuming. He spent weeks on end camped high beneath the route waiting for the smallest weather window. When the water ran out, there was no gas left to boil more. He drank fly water and stayed. In 2024, he contracted Lymes disease. Recovery brought setbacks, uncertainty and months away from full strength. Then, during another attempt, an elasticated sky hook snapped back into his eye, opening a deep cut and forcing yet another retreat. Still, he kept returning. "A hundred decisions and chances taken over the past two weeks that have all turned out in my favour". 📸: @britrockfilms & @francocookson

Channel/Medium:
Instagram
onMay 16, 2026
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Montane - GB

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Last week, Montane athlete Franco Cookson completed the first ascent of But Nothing is Lost, prop...
May 16, 2026, 6:34 PM

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